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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:10 pm 
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http://s828.photobucket.com/albums/zz20 ... 11/skulls/


the black bear and wolf still need some more degreasing and a final whitening. other things are done


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:20 pm 
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You are doing some nice work there.


i have an otter, beaver and a few mink skulls in the freezer to do. Where are you getting your peroxide?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:25 pm 
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gth wrote:
You are doing some nice work there.


i have an otter, beaver and a few mink skulls in the freezer to do. Where are you getting your peroxide?


i used to get it from walmart the 3% stuff but its like $1.75 a litter the stuff only lasts like 2-3 times if lucky. I now buy peroxide from a chemical supply store 20L of 35% NOT volume costs $65 and 20L of 50% is like $70 or so and this stuff can be reused multiple times and it greatly helps with degreasing etc... although for mink id recommend the 3% stuff as they are quite fragile.....


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:05 am 
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fergustrap@videotron.ca
nice work Sc


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 12:33 pm 
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The restraunt trade uses a peroxide that is a lot cheaper. It is sold at gardn centres/nurserys because you dilute it for spaying roses for fungus infections etc. Cost is about 17$ litre 35% conc.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:04 pm 
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i did up some coyote skulls for my property owners. i used some stuff i got from a hairstylist friend. it didnt whiten to pure white, but they look great.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:25 pm 
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Flea maniac wrote:
The restraunt trade uses a peroxide that is a lot cheaper. It is sold at gardn centres/nurserys because you dilute it for spaying roses for fungus infections etc. Cost is about 17$ litre 35% conc.


how is $17 a litter a lot cheaper than 1.75 per litter for 3% stuff or like $3 a litter for the 35% industrial grade??? its not much cheaper its MUCH more expensive!!!! the industrial grade is much cheaper and much more potent. why would you need the purity of the food grade stuff??????????


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:26 pm 
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mike k wrote:
i did up some coyote skulls for my property owners. i used some stuff i got from a hairstylist friend. it didnt whiten to pure white, but they look great.


thats grease.....


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:01 pm 
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I know taxidermists that also soak skulls in Naptha (white gas) to degrease them.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 8:14 pm 
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The industrial stuff you use 80 ml to the litre to make a 3 % solution.
High conc keep the Oxygen locked up more than the 3% , so there is more punch when you need it.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:42 pm 
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Flea maniac wrote:
The industrial stuff you use 80 ml to the litre to make a 3 % solution.
High conc keep the Oxygen locked up more than the 3% , so there is more punch when you need it.


the industrial stuff is high concentration from 35-50% its the same strenght as the food grade 35% stuff with the indust. 50% being even stronger. why would you dilute it in the first place???

The only difference is purity the food grade stuff is pure peroxide while the industrial stuff might have other potentially dangerous stuff in it. that if ingested could kill you. food grade stuff is diluted down greatly and ingested by people who use it. you cant have god knows what in something that you ingest it itll be fine however on the skull. thats why the food grade stuff is so expensive as it MUST be pure.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 11:44 pm 
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fergustrap wrote:
nice work Sc


thanks fergus :) ps that black bear skull is the one i bought off you


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 5:26 pm 
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I have boiled a few wolf skull and then treated them in a 35 % peroxide mixed 5 to 1 with water. The skulls come out real nice but I am having problems with the teeth cracking after they have dried.
Can somebody help me solve this problem.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:37 pm 
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Hey Tom44,
Check out Taxidermy.net website, tons of tips on skulls. From what I've read both Bear and canine teeth do crack quite often, usually from big temp changes, some guys pull them first. also lots of tips on masceration easy alternative to boiling.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2011 6:13 pm 
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tom44 wrote:
I have boiled a few wolf skull and then treated them in a 35 % peroxide mixed 5 to 1 with water. The skulls come out real nice but I am having problems with the teeth cracking after they have dried.
Can somebody help me solve this problem.


you need a sealent... any clear sealent really would do


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